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Since then, I've gotten it to work thanks to a little help from Rob Mitchell, and all current results reflect this.

Chris Cracknell's mod and Ben Heckendorn's mod were also run through the S-VHS deck using composite in and out , since the signal was too weak without it to get a stable signal.

This depends largely on how forgiving your TV or video monitor is with unstable signals, so you may not require a VCR.

First, I let the system being tested warm up. I've found that the colors shift after awhile, if the unit has been left off.

Then, I used the Color Bar Generator's title screen to calibrate the color using the big potentiometer on the main board - basing the adjustments on the instructions for that cart which can be viewed at AtariAge.

An adjustment potentiometer is placed on the VCS console circuit board to adjust the degree delay so that it is the same as 0 degrees.

Although we do not recommend that you void any warranty on your game console, the potentiometer the only one can be adjusted so that the top half of the colored box is as close to the same color as the bottom half.

The color generation circuits can then correctly produce colors from 0 to degrees. When adjusting this potentiometer, use a small screwdriver in the center.

It's easier to make fine adjustments than if you just grabbed it with your fingers. You can also adjust these through the hole located on the bottom side of the board.

I figured this would give the best idea of which video mod was interpreting the color signals most accurately. That way, I'm testing how each mod works, rather than using the to compensate for each mod, or adjusting the video monitor until it looks good.

Ben's mod required some additional back-and-forth adjustments, since his mod uses two potentiometers for adjustment.

The CyberTech mod allows for adjustment of the picture, but it isn't required to get it to work. This is about the equivalent of digitizing using a DV converter, except it has better image quality than a consumer setup.

I then did a direct FireWire transfer of the video into Final Cut Pro, so there was no signal loss from the digital tape.

Even though DV does use compression for video, there were no noticeable artifacts from the compression present in any of these tests, since there was very little movement happening onscreen.

Below are the carts I tested, listing the still frames I've taken from the captured video. They've been left at x, and interlaced, so it looks the way it does on an NTSC monitor.

I've made notes of why I chose these particular screens for comparison. However, I felt some of them were poor examples or redundant, so I opted for these instead.

This should give a good enough cross section to show the differences in image quality under various conditions.

Depending on your particular TV or video monitor, you may have better or worse results. Some monitors are more forgiving with unstable video signals than others.

For a couple of the mods, I had to run them through a VCR to stabilize the signal. There's some ghosting on the images which appear as faint double images to the left or right , but all of the video mods and RF output exhibit this, and it's more likely something to do with the TIA itself, than something that can be eliminated.

It's less noticeable on an NTSC monitor than it is in these screen captures. The video driver - For the life of me, I couldn't get it to work on either or my I tried various connection points on the s and , double-checked the diagram, and even changed the circuit once to account for a possible ambiguity in the diagram.

I'd be very interested in hearing from anyone who has gotten this to work, and could shed some light on the matter.

Chris Cracknell's mod - This is where everything is crunched together with no additional components. Without running it through a VCR, most games would start up very bright, then rapidly fade to almost nothing within seconds.

On other games, the brightness fluctuated a lot, and the image was very unstable. Running it through a VCR helped, but some games lacked color, others had large areas of color flaring across the screen, and nothing was really what I would call acceptable.

RF video - The default video of the , which you've been looking at for over 20 years. It doesn't look too bad, until you have something better to compare it with - then you start seeing how awful it really is.

Indistinct shapes, soft edges, dull colors, and plenty of noise mar the picture. The plus side is that it's easy to hook up.

A direct adapter gives a better picture than a switchbox, but unless you want to live without cable or satellite, you'll have to get some sort of switch for it.

If you must use the old switchbox, hit it with some contact cleaner. A note regarding contact cleaner: I've been told that Radio Shack's cleaner can gum up over time, so I'd avoid theirs.

I've had good luck using this cleaner. Rubbing alcohol is another option. Ben Heckendorn's mod - For being so simple, it works remarkably well.

Initially, the video was extremely unstable on my monitor, which resulted in a very dark and wobbly image. However, by running it through a VCR, the image stabilized, and the picture looked very good and quite bright.

Depending on your particular monitor, you may or may not need to run the signal through a VCR first. The mod requires some tweaking of the two potentiometers on the mod and the one on the to get decent colors, which may be hard to do without a test cart.

This mod didn't work at all with an S-Video connection - the image would distort to the point of being unrecognizable. Still, it has a good composite picture, it's easy and cheap to build, and may suit most people's needs just fine.

It worked nearly as well as the CD circuit, but it was slightly darker see next paragraph. You might consider this if you want a good picture, with a little less work than the CD requires to build.

A good project for the do-it-yourself enthusiast. The CyberTech mod - Easily the best of the bunch, and the one that now permanently resides in my six-switch It's the easiest mod to install despite the issues I ran into , and produces a beautiful, clean, bright S-Video picture.

But after the work I put into the CD, I found it worth the money. You can also have Atari If you can't install it yourself, you'll be better off finding a friend or neighbor with a soldering iron.

A couple of pluses are 1 it's completely reversible if you want to remove it and 2 it has "stereo" sound. Admittedly, stereo works better on some games than others, but it's a nice extra.

The has two sound channels, and one gets sent to each speaker, but it's not true "stereo" since the use of the channels tends to be arbitrary.

The CyberTech mod also allows you to adjust brightness, contrast and saturation. I discovered after the first round of tests that I needed to adjust the saturation , so there are two sets of test results shown below - the first set is from the mod as preset by the manufacturer, and the other set is after I adjusted it.

These are all maximum quality JPEG files, so there's almost no additional image compression beyond the DV compression used during capture. For what it's worth - these are very accurate representations of what was on the NTSC monitor.

I switched back and forth between a live image from the and the captured video to be sure I wasn't picking up unwanted artifacts. They're listed approximately in order of increasing image quality, from least to highest.

The frame captures shown here tend to exaggerate some of the ghosting that happens in the picture noticeable on the trees in Pitfall II, and on the vertical lines in Midnight Magic , in part because the computer can capture a much wider range of picture information than most NTSC monitors will display.

Also, DV uses non-square pixels, which exaggerates the width of the images. While these color artifacts are still visible to a degree on a real , they're far less noticeable on an NTSC monitor due to the limited color space, and the presence of scanlines.

Some of these are large files, up to KB. I'm just making a list of what's available, so you can open them for yourselves and compare what you wish.

I used the preset CyberTech mod for these tests, running the S-Video out through each adapter. The point of this comparison is to show the difference between S-Video and composite video, and also that you don't need an expensive adapter to get the same results.

However, going from composite video to S-Video is an entirely different matter. I did not test the do-it-yourself adapter shown on this page.

Forum covering the fantastical original slot car creations of the '60s. Forum for vintage HO scale cars of any brand, both stock and modified at any level.

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Read first post regarding ad fee. This is a temporary forum to put all of Tom's fabulous cars in one place so as not to monopolize the Racer Swap Shop.

Forum for discussion of any and all non-slot model cars and toys: Here are some tools that I have made or modified at a low cost, instead of buying expensive commercial products.

This is easily made from some good straight aluminum plate, and a bit of careful work with a table saw to cut the flange grooves to the proper gauge.

I find it handy for aligning running boards and scribing lagging separations. I like working with acrylic, it's just so easy with a table saw.

I'm not sure where the idea came from, but probably had to do with blast furnace modeling, which deals with a lot of larger diameter tubing.

This odd tool is basicly a long 'V' Block with an adjustable stop. The 2nd picture shows it setup to square up the ends of rough sawed 3" PVC tubing for blast furnace stoves.

A regular Microflame torch with hose adaptors, small flame tip and oxygen and propane cylinders from the hardware store. This torch generates a very small and hot flame which is excellent for soldering brass parts without unsoldering adjacent pieces, and it has the capacity to heat to solder flow temperature most HO brass locomotive parts.

Oxygen is the original oxidizer gas used with the Microflame torch, But early on they encountered problems shipping it through the mail, so they switched to 'Micronox' gas and larger diameter tips.

This stuff didn't work out very well for me, and it was very annoying having to change out the little cylinders every 5 minutes.

So I stopped in to the Microflame headquarters in Minneapolis when I happened to be there sometime in the '70's, and picked up a hose adaptor set from them.

All I really needed from the kit was the oxygen valve. I have since seen oxygen valves available separately at some hardware stores and probably from various tool catalogs.

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